Stage 1: Browsing adverts
How do I check a motorbike's history?
Enter the registration on any page of this site. The free basic check returns bike details, MOT history, mileage at every test and tax status in a few seconds, with no account and no card.
Is the free check free?
Yes. No card details, no sign-up, no trial that starts billing later, and no cap on how many bikes you run through it. Checking your whole shortlist is what it is for.
What does the free check not show?
Finance, theft markers, write-off records, scrapped records and keeper history. Those come from registers that charge per lookup, so nobody can give them away.
Does it work for scooters, mopeds and trikes?
Anything registered with the DVLA, at any engine size.
The bike I searched returned no MOT history. Is that a bad sign?
Usually not. Bikes need no MOT until they are three years old, so anything younger has no test record at all. It also happens after a very recent plate transfer or on a registration too new to have reached the dataset.
How many bikes should I check before I contact anyone?
All of them. It costs nothing and it will typically remove two or three from a shortlist of six before you make a single phone call.
Stage 2: Before you travel to view
What should I run before I get in the car?
The full check, on the one or two bikes you are serious about. A stolen marker or an active finance agreement found from your kitchen table saves you a wasted Saturday, and a bike is often worth a long drive that a car would not be.
How much does the full check cost?
£[X.XX] for a single check. One payment, no subscription, no auto-renewal.
How long does it take?
A few seconds. Enter the registration and the report appears.
Can I check by frame number instead of registration?
Yes. That is the better route on an import, on a bike with no plate fitted, or wherever you are not confident the plate and the machine belong together.
What if the seller will not give me the registration?
Treat that as an answer in itself. There is no legitimate reason to withhold it from a serious buyer, and a plate is visible in most adverts anyway.
Stage 3: At the viewing
What should I check on the bike itself?
The frame number on the headstock and the engine number on the crankcase, both against the V5C, character by character. Then the usual: fork seals, chain and sprockets, tyre dates, disc wear, head bearings, and whether the wear matches the mileage.
The frame number does not match the paperwork. What now?
Leave, and do not explain why. Report what you saw to the police on 101 afterwards. A mismatch is the strongest single indicator of a cloned or rung bike.
The engine number does not match. Is that the same thing?
Not necessarily. Replacement engines are common on older bikes and entirely legitimate when documented. Ask for the history and the receipts.
The MOT record shows advisories. Should I walk away?
Almost every used bike has some. What matters is whether they were dealt with. An advisory that appears once and disappears means somebody fixed it. The same one carried across four tests means it has been ignored for four years.
The mileage does not match the advert.
Ask specifically rather than generally. Quote the recorded figure and the date and ask them to account for the difference. Genuine sellers usually can, often because they listed it wrong.
Stage 4: Before you hand over money
The check found outstanding finance. Can I still buy it?
Not until it is settled. While an agreement is live, the finance company owns the bike rather than the seller. Ask for a settlement letter from the lender, verify it by calling the lender on a number you found yourself, and pay the settlement figure directly to them with the balance to the seller.
The seller says they will pay off the finance with my money.
Do not agree to it. Pay the lender directly for the settlement portion. Anyone acting in good faith will accept that immediately because it costs them nothing.
The check shows a write-off. Is the bike a write-off now?
Depends on the category. Cat A and Cat B must never return to the road. Cat S and Cat N can be legally repaired and ridden, and are often good value, but they are worth less than a clean example and a Cat S needs an independent inspection of the repair.
The bike is recorded as stolen.
Walk away, hand over nothing, do not confront the seller, and report it on 101 or to Crimestoppers. Police can recover a stolen bike from whoever holds it, and a buyer who has already paid has very little recourse.
Is it safe to pay in cash?
It is common in the private bike market and it leaves you no trail. A bank transfer gives you a record of who received the money, which matters if anything goes wrong.
Stage 5: After you have bought
How long can I access my report?
It stays tied to the registration on your account. Come back to it whenever you like without paying again.
Something has come to light that the check did not show. What now?
Contact us with the registration and what you have found. Where a guarantee applies, we will tell you how to claim. Where the event was never recorded on any register, which happens with privately repaired crash damage, we will tell you that too.
Can I use my report to sell the bike on?
Yes, and it is worth doing. A clean report attached to an advert shortens the sale and protects your asking price.
Do you store my registration searches?
[FILL IN with your actual policy, and make sure it matches your privacy policy word for word.]
Can I get a refund?
[FILL IN, linking to your refund policy. Be specific about the circumstances, because a vague answer here generates support tickets.]